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Madeira - 2009 Apr 20 - May 4



EasyJet Flight EZY 8937 from Gatwick to Madeira

Over Brittany?

Roger reading

Ponta São Lourenço peninsula
Madeira

Madeira (top) and the Isle of Wight shown on the same scale.
(Shameless rip-off from Google maps.) The official maps are the
Carta Militar (needs Internet Explorer)

top is a cross-section through Madeira from west to east.
Funchal

(
Wiki upload) Five hundred years of development of naval architecture.
The vessel on the left is a (presumably full size) replica of the
Santa María de la Inmaculada Concepción
which was the largest (!) of the three ships used by Christopher Columbus in his first voyage across the Atlantic in 1492.
It does half-day trips along the south coast

The old and the new - small fisherman and big ship

The upper part is a copy of
this image
which is linked to from
this page
about
RMS Titanic.
It has been scaled to match the Independence in size.
Bear in mind that the red bits of the Titanic represent its 10.5 metre, below the water line draught. With a draught of only 8.8 metres and that towering superstructure the Independence seems awfully top-heavy.
Avenida das Comunidades Madeirenses

looking east along the coast. Note how soon the cliffs begin.

looking east of Monte
lower station of cable car to Monte

looking up to Monte

Roger at ease

Inside the base station

Cacti are used to create a fence below the cars.

close up of the cactus fence

When I saw this telephérique, I said "I bet that was built by Austrians" and sure enough it was. See
this page on their website.
See
Rancho for another by Doppelmayr
Promenade

looking east towards the fort
Mercado dos Lavoradores - link needed

The famous fish market was finished for the day when we arrived and was being cleaned up

The courtyard, where flowers, fruit, leather and other goods are sold

The Independence of the Seas dwarfs the buildings in Funchal
town centre
Homenagem a Bordeira - statue outside the Embroidery Museum

bougainvillea grows out across the wires over the ribeiro
Avenida Arriga?

The Jacaranda trees contrast well with the yellow taxis

Note the woman at extreme right taking a photograph. She appears in the same posture on the left of the previous!

Toyota showroom with traditional
azulejos

near the Marina shopping centre

the Independence of the Seas seemed to be visible at the end of every street

Farewell to the Independence of the Seas

In the old town restaurant area
Pizo

the three chimneys on the right are on the
Central Térmica da Vitória - the thermal power station with 16 diesel generators.
Despite all that water (and a bit of wind power), this station generates 60% of the island's electricity
Cabo Girão

looking down to Ribeira Quinta Grande
Quinta Grande

teleférico down cliff
Cruz da Caldeira
Miradouro Restaurant

looking towards Funchal
espetada is meat on a long skewer. It is brought to your table on the skewer and hung up. In this restaurant they have holes in the table and in the tablecloth to take the stand.
Also visible in this picture is another Madeiran speciality
milho frito - fried cornmeal cubes
Encosta Cabo Girão

looking down to the villas. The location means that the HPB site may be cool and in cloud when it is sunny in Funchal

(
Wiki upload) the view from our bedroom window.
Stayed in
this unlikely article
for all of four days until some mean-minded person said
image removed - not in the UK, this article doesn't need photographs anyway.

from the clubhouse

HPB have created a path with an artificially tidy levada passing through the site. The real Levada do Norte runs nearby.

These tiny lizards scuttle over all the baclonies

HPB site at Encosta Cabo Girao
Funchal
Port

Aida cruise ship

Taken from the cable car to Monte

Looking towards Monte

Scaffold monkeys?
Jardim Tropical Monte Palace

Japanese garden

Lilies grow in profusion beneath these dramatic tree ferns

top of Japanese garden

Chinese warriors

Stepping stones

Roger in silhouette

Looking down through the garden towards Funchal
Grotto

Nymphs in alcoves

azulheos
(Image ripped off from somewhere on the web.)

The tallest vase in the world according to the 1992 Guinness Book of Records. 5345 mm high.
Now beaten by a
clay pot in Taiwan.

There seem to be very few dogs in Madeira and most of those we saw were asleep

Canna lilies

Crocosmia
Koi carp ponds

Ancient olive tree and lavender
Monte

spare cars in the top station of the cable car

Cabo Girão from Monte

looking down from Foguete into the valley of Ribeira João Gomes with the harbour in the distance.
(Image ripped off from 2867523635_f03a5bfd94.jpg found somewhere on the web.)
Another view with location details
Cabo Girão

The farmer who tilled this field (by hand!) has done so within inches of a 500 metre sheer drop!

In this image
(ripped off from Funchal_from_CabG.jpg found somewhere on the web) and taken at an earlier date, there seems to be some sort of edging to the field but in my pictures there is absolutely nothing!
Serra de Água

looking to tunnel portal

looking east across the valley

See how the pine trees bend in the prevailing north east wind

Terracing up the mountainside

There is so little flat land that farmers terrace as far up the mountains as they can
Central da Serra de Água (power station)

pipe bringing Levada do Norte down
Encumeada

Levada do Norte

The cafe at Encumeada

Roger
Pedras

looking east
Paúl da Serra

Roger with wind turbines behind

After the vertiginous climb up the mountains, the flat bleakness of Paúl de Serra is strangely disconcerting. Even the car looks suprised.

wind turbines looking east. See how the tops of the peaks peep over the edge of the plateau. The highest peak in the distance is the Pico Ruivo, 1862 metres and this plateau levels off at 1500 metres

Strange cacti - botanists please identify

More wind turbines

The straight road on Paúl de Serra is probably the only road which is straight for over a mile on the island
Rabaçal

looking down from car park

Water management system? and cattle

cow resting with gorse

Looking towards Calheta? Is the smoke the sugar factory?

Woodland plant in the shade on the levada walk
Levada do Risco

The levada walk

Waterfall

Roger

Roger in silhouette

Ferns under the waterfalls

The levada path at Rabacal is wide and shaded by ancient laurel

same as
link but with cloud
Arco da Calheta
Loreto
Ponta do Sol

Escola Basica e Secundaria da Ponta do Sol
harbour

We ate espada
(
several pages on madeiraisland.com),
in English known as
black scabbardfish (which they serve with banana!) in the seafood cafe on the rocks. The food was excellent, as are the views.

Various bridges in the British Isles are described as a "bridge over the Atlantic":
see geograph.org.uk or
the most famous one
Clachan Bridge near Oban. This one could also claim the title

View from the cafe terrace looking west
São Vicente
Ginjas, Corrida Feiteiras

looking up the valley
Grutas (caves) and Volcanic Centre

touring the caves

Roger on right

Our shadows, thrown by the spotlights, began to resemble primitive cave paintings

Roger on left

Ferns growing under the spotlights
lapilli is a generic term so it is no surprise that this stuff looks nothing like the
pretty white balls
we found on Fuerteventura
Grutas (caves) and Volcanic Centre - exterior

approach to

grounds of

Roger hidden by the Pride of Maderia plants
Lameiros

Domestic details - there are few supermarkets. All Madeirans seem to grow food and flowers, whether it is in a few fields or in pots on the steps.

This combination of palms and misty peaks is typical of the north coast.
Capela de Nossa Senhora de Fátima

in Laranjal, seen from Lameiros
sea front

Whereas the sea on the south coast was quite calm, the power of the Atlantic is obvious on the north coast. It could almost be a different ocean.

looking back into the village
(Image ripped off from somewhere on the web.)
(Image ripped off from somewhere on the web.)
Not actually sure of location but looks like the old road from São Vicente to Seixal
(Image ripped off from somewhere on the web.)
Seixal
near Ponta do Poiso

This was our only rainy day, but we were glad to find out what it is like in the north when wet Atlantic weather closes in.
harbour

See the banks of nasturtiums cascading down the cliff

fishing boat
Ribeira Brava
sea front

cafes

sunset

Roger was not pleased when the waiter grabbed his camera - probably worried that he would drop it
Pico Alto

View over Funchal
Cabo Girao?

Strange structure - we thought it might be a takoff runway for the "mad German hang gliders" described to us by a local taxi driver.
Ribeiro Frio
fish farm
walk to Balcoes

Flowering shrub on side of path - botanists please identify
Balcoes miradouro

Altitude?

Tree with small blue birds by the miradouro

Branches inspired by chinese brushstoke painting

Roger on top of the miradouro

The photographer photographed

The small blue birds were hopping about looking for crumbs - (ornothologists please identify)

Rock plants - (botanists please identify)
small shrine to Nossa Senhora de Fátima
cafe

Camellia portrait
Lombo do Baixo

Another bank of nasturtiums by the roadside
Faial
Miradouro

View looking east

wind and salt hardy wild plants. could they be Madeiran rock orchids?

Rocks in the swell of the sea

Wind and salt hardy wild plants - some form of sedum or stonecrop?
village centre

Windblown palm

Domestic detail - all houses have to be multi level

Garden on a slope

(
Wiki upload) tunnel portal. Tunnel is 3168 metres long
bridge

The old bridge which was lost in a storm
Porto da Cruz
quayside

American tourists - probably from a cruise ship

Statue which seems to pay homage to flowers

Porto da Cruz was an old fishing harbour, but is now being modernised. We spotted one fishing boat.

Roger paddling - Madeira doesn't have beaches, only rocks

Even the palm trees find it hard to thrive in the strong winds

The photographer photographed
cafe

From inside the cafe with the yellow blinds

Who is that in the top window?

Shrek has retired from movies and is now running a cafe in Porto do Cruz!
snap!

These two pictures are actually 21 Streatham Common South, London, SW16
village

Statue of a flower maiden

Another multi level house with palms, flowers and several balconies

Bank of rock plants

Strelitzia - Bird of Paradise flower

Hanging baskets - botanists please identify
igreja
churchyard

Looking east

Botanists please identify

Tree in churchyard

Lilies

Rose portrait
village

Public sculpture

Pergola with palm tree

Pergola and trumpet vine

Agapanthus grow large and wild in Madeira

Sea arch

Roger on the rocks
car park

Lilies
Canico de Baixo

Another bank of wild nasturtiums

The Porto Santo ferry

Possibly the Vision of the Seas
Funchal

Public sculpture

Embroidery factory

The Albatross in port
Electricidad da Madeira
Festa da Flor de 2009
Flower Festival held in Funchal

A lone flower

Waiting for the parade

Fruity lady?

Some people in the crowd clearly had friends and relatives in the parade

Some needed lolipops to keep going

Parading on a float is thirsty work

Just keep on dancing

The best view in the house

Is this a Michael Jackson tribute?

Seedlings?
Rancho
top of teleférico

View toward Funchal

Rose portrait
Câmara de Lobos

street scene with balconies and laundry
Eira do Serrado
looking down to Curral das Freiras
Walk to viewpoint

Flowering cacti

The view over Curral is vertiginous

Roger alone with the mountains
Curral

The hotel, cafe and car park which is the starting place for the walk to the viewpoint

Wild yellow flowers (botanists please identify)

Yet another Agapanthus
Curral das Freiras
Village

Terracing work in progress

The viewpoint seen from below
churchyard

These beautifully tended floral displays are loving tributes to families and friends

path

graves

gate of the churchyard

Looking beyond the churchyard to even lower parts of the valley

Strelitzia - Bird of Paradise flower, and Protea? in arrangement

The profusion and beauty of the flower displays is quite breathtaking

Canna lilies and volcanic crags
Fajã dos Cardos
Monte
Following the track of the old rack railway

Donkey

View to Funchal marina
Monte church
(Image ripped off from somewhere on the web.)

Flowers growing on the rooftops
start of the toboggan run

the famous
carros de cesto, literally "basket cars", stacked up at the start of the run - this was evening

note: wooden runners

when the toboggans are working this place looks like this.
(Image ripped off from somewhere on the web.)
The sign at top right reads …

fare table for the toboggans - interestingly non-linear: 1 person - €20, 2 people - €25, 3 people €37.50

Further down the toboggan run with two drivers not in uniform
(See Hofi0006-29 for licence.)

Another tropical garden in a gorge

The charming but faded old town square at Monte

viaduct for the funicular railway.
Terreiro da Luta

Santuário de Nossa Senhora da Paz

Hydrangea growing wild
near Monte

Another bank of wild nasturtiums, with lorry

looking west?
Rancho
top of teleférico

Taken from the restuarant at the teleférico

Roger using the camera's "night portrait" mode
Encosta Cabo Girão

looking down to Club House

Crazy golf players
Calheta
Beach

The sand is from Morocco!

Artificial breakwaters

Madeira is not dog friendly
Engenho da Calheta

Raw materials for the sugar factory coming in by lorry
outside the church

Roses

Trumpet vine

Rose

Michealmas daisies

Rose
church

Espírito Santo

churchyard flowers

Gate

Wrought iron balcony and roses

Bush outside sugar factory (botanists please identify)

Bush outside sugar factory again
Lombo do Salão
Escola Básica do 1° Ciclo
Ribeira da Calheta
well up the Ribeira da Calheta visiting the point where the levada tunnel comes through from Rabaçal
Levada Nova

monitoring station

depth gauge showing 44 cm

monitoring station and a flag labelled
escala marking the depth gauge

These lilies are in garden of the the abandonned cottage. At one time there must have been a levada keeper, but now everything is automated

looking down the valley
Central Hidroeléctrica da Calheta N° 1
looking through the windows into the turbine hall

spare Pelton wheel
Lombo dos Faias
exterior
Lombo do Doutor
Caminho Lombo do Doutor
Lombo dos Faias -ish
Canhas
Recta da Canha

32.697223,-17.116082
Vos que passais
Descuidados, presos ao mundo
Parai!
Morri por vossos pecados
Descobri-vos e
Rezai! which Google translates as:
You that raisins
Careless, stuck to the world
Stop!
Died for your sins
I found you and
Pray!
Ribeira Brava

(
Wiki upload) looking east at sunset across the Ribeira Brava valley
Ponta São Lourenço
the St. Laurence peninsula. the eastern tip of the island

Botanists please identify this strange plant

More Pride of Madeira and small ferns

The Swim I

The Swim II

The Swim III

The Swim IV

The Swim V - Roger and friend

The Swim VI

The Swim VII

Local flora - cacti

Another scuttling lizard

Some form of heather?

Botanists please identify

Botanists please identify

Botanists please identify

Botanists please identify
Santa Catarina Airport
(Shamelessly ripped off from this blog post which has more pictures of the runway extension.)
Santa Cruz

Avenue of palm trees

Dragon trees

Roger on the jetty

Public sculture - flower maiden and friend?

Roger - photography is very tiring

Development of new flats

Arch dividing the beach from the harbour area

Old fishing boat

This cafe proudly offered free wi-fi

Flora growing on wires above the ribeira

After a good meal with vinho verde

Abstract representation of driving through one of Maderias many tunnels after vinho verde
Serrado da Adega

this rock has recently fallen on to the road
Santana

Gazanias?
Parque Temático

Agapanthus - again

Periwinkle

dotted around the park are giant representations of various typically Madeiran things. Roger had to point out the walnuts before Lesley registered this as Madeira cake

This distorting mirror improves both our figures

As we toured the site,
we realised that the continuous folk music was coming from these singing stones -
speakers hidden in plastic rocks.
Note the little holes which are the give away.
Watch
the video!

The Singing Stone uncovered.
I am trying to pretend that it was heavy, but really they are very light.
For another take on the phrase "musical stones" see
MySpace and
Wikipedia

The sign inside this earth closet stated that it was not for public usage!

pixie hat

giant whicker chair made out of copper tube

The famous Madeiran embroiderers at work

Fuschia bushes
Santana

Igreja da Santa Ana
Manhole covers
Santana
Encosta Cabo Girão

(I think the manager is called Eugene Manole!)
Vilamoura

Câmara Municipal de Loulé
Loulé
Faial ?

Porto Santo is further away than the Islas Desertas and is more difficult to see
Pico do Arieiro

the Porto Santo ferry is sailing through the clouds.
The spelling Areeiro is also seen.
Indeed the
Carta Militar (cf. Ordnance Survey)
uses one spelling at one scale and the other spelling at a different scale!
Google thinks Arieiro is more common

Looking south

Looking west

Looking north west

Looking west

Roger atop the mountains

The steps to the viewpoint

Looking north

Roger checking his exposure

Pico do Ruivo from Pico do Arieiro

the summit - 1816 metres

The hotel on the Pico is shut, but seems to undergoing some building work

the secondary peak is called the Miradouro do Juncal

Looking east

Brocken spectre or glory

The road to the summit

Above the clouds

Looking north to Eagle Rock

Looking north to Eagle Rock

Brocken spectre or glory
Encosta Cabo Girão

cruise ship heading towards Funchal
Ribeira dos Cambios ?
or Lombarda dos Marinheiros

works access to two tunnels being built on the extension of the rapido
Ribeira dos Marinheiros
Lombadinha

possibly because it was May Day, people, mainly children, were selling these flower necklaces at the roadside all over the place
Ponta do Pargo - the point itself
the westernmost point of Madeira

Wild poppies

Wild scabious?
Ponta do Pargo village

May Day is a workers holiday and native Madeirienses formed happy family groups with picnic tables at every attractive spot

Camella

Roses

Begonias in a front garden
Centro Cívico

includes Centro de Saudé

The minimalist modern architecture of this civic square contrasts with the ornateness of the churches
Achadas da Cruz
teleférico
bottom of the cliffs

On the small patch of flat land at the bottom of the cliff are strange gardens (allotments?) divided by stone walls

Small shrine to St Christopher

Rock plants

Rush fences protect against the north east wind

Is it a home or an allotment shed?

The paths create a maze to a cafe which we never reached

The gardens are fed by mini levadas

This small dwelling is harvesting wind power

Sugar cane blasted by the salty wind

T.S. Eliot in Little Gidding writes of places at "the world's end, some at the sea jaws". This is one of them.

Wild poppies and scabious

Roger on the rocks

Who is that small figure in the distance?

Wild poppies

Ferns

Cacti

Pride of Madeira

The base of the teleférico
Santa
above Porto Moniz

Candles, lilies and fresias decorate this roadside shrine.
More Senhoras
Homenagemdos Motoristas do Porto Moniz
aNossa Senhora dos Bons Caminhos1.7.84
Porto Moniz

Cactus garden at Porto Moniz
Piscinas Naturais do Porto Moniz

It is clear that the Madeirenses did not build the pool here for themselves, but so that they could be entertained by seeing foolhardy northern europeans swept out to sea

At last, Roger gets to swim

Only two other swimmers braved the waves, which crash over the rocks and send mini tsunami across the pool

Roger swimming

See how the rock plants crawl down the cliff
Porto Moniz

Tamarisk trees? Botanists please identify
Ribeira da Janela

Sea pinnacle

looking back to Porto Moniz
above Ribeira da Janela

looking down to Seixal
Cruz da Caldeira
200 metres up the road to Fontainhas
Quinta Grande

Centro de Dia
Igreja
Vera Cruz
Estreito de Câmara de Lobos

Igreja da Nossa Senhora da Graça in Rua Cónego Agostinho Figueira de Faria.
I looked up this good canon.
Google's translation
of an article about him says:
"by resolution buddy of 18 May 1995 the City Council Chamber of the Wolves
gave their name to the street between the apricot and Largo's skate".
More Senhoras
Lourencinha

apparent gradient 1:3
Ribeira Real

apparent gradient 1:2.7

apparent gradient 1:2.8
Pizo
Pico das Arrudas

from bridge over motorway

from NW of church
Pico dos Barcelos

Igreja in Santo Antonio
32.811281,-17.248664
São Martinho
Quebradas

apparent gradient 1:9
Cabo Girão
Santuário de Nossa Senhora de Fátima

Health and Safety may not have visited the
sugar cane factory but they have seen to it that live candles are forbidden within Portuguese churches. This outside stand is for burning candles

A small room stands near the chapel. I believe it is the original
1931 chapel.
Inside is this curious collection of wax (?) heads.
Encosta Cabo Girão

Car park at eastern end of HPB site

Roger with view

Cabbage cultivation on Cabo Girao
levada nearby
MSC Lirica

Once outside the neat HPB site, the local people tend their vertical gardens and pile up useful wood

Terrace gardens with a view
Cruz da Caldeira
Levada do Norte

just as the levada emerges from the tunnel

the damage to the railing is probably not caused by vandalism but by falling rocks

Igreja da Nossa Senhora dos Remédios
in Quinta Grande
Cabo Girão

at the miradouro is a small exhibition about tourism to Madeira in the past. This photo shows George Bernard Shaw learning to tango at Reid's Hotel in 1925. The dance instructor is
Max Rinder and the young lady is
Hope du Barri
Encosta Cabo Girão

Blocks MH and MJ
Funchal

list of cruise ship visits to Funchal displayed in the reception area at Encosta Cabo Girão
sailwx.info is a wonderful site that keeps track of hundreds of ships. This screen shot shows that apparently Albatros has only got to Morocco since last Sunday
port area

the Porto Santo car ferry has just come in so a bit of traffic control is required

note the pistol on the hip of this traffic cop

MSC Lirica

at Estrada Monumental 139

their website designers apparently saw nothing wrong with flopping this view from the hotel

1933 price list for Reid's - on display at the exhibition at Cabo Girão - see
link
Encosta Cabo Girão
Cabo Girão
Encosta Cabo Girão
HPB Site

White agapanthus

Banks of flowers

bottlebrush bush on the right

View over the villas
interior of apartment MJ6

Lesley

Roger on CyberLinkYouCam
Santa Catarina Airport

The view from the departures lounge - a bit different from most airports!
EasyJet Flight EZY 8938 from Madeira to Gatwick
Whyteleafe, Surrey
Tenerife - a similar island in the Atlantic |
Fuerteventura - a different island in the Atlantic |
Algarve - a different bit of Portugal |
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